I’m team Wang.
Still trying to shake off the bad press from last season’s “guerrilla” fashion show in the back alleys of Brooklyn (maybe fashion ad party buses don’t mix?), Alexander Wang is pushing ahead with his June/December presentation schedule in what may be an attempt to get back to the good graces of editors and stylists alike. Lining up with other brands’ Resort collections may give Alexander Wang an opportunity to send a clearer message with only two presentations a year.
Breaking from the traditional Fashion Week presentation schedule (something I imagine the CFDA is still not happy about, no matter how many time they insist they are collaborating on the move) is not easy. We’ve seen it done successfully before at Helmut Lang, who successfully dragged all of NYFW with him, but we’ve also seen it fail with big names like Burberry (when Christopher Bailey was still CD) and Tom Ford. Both brands struggled to reorganize
their production schedules and reverted to
I find moves like this more of a confusion for everyone than anything else, but Alexander Wang insists that the move was for the consumer. Allowing him to deliver in store more often and branch out to other markets globally, the move allows the brand to mimic successful models like fast-fashion brands Zara and H&M.
I have to admit, if I see any brand succeeding at this, it might be Alexander Wang. His personal vision and street-style, counter-culture aesthetic might continue to thrive under a different schedule. He’s in a position to break the mold, something more luxurious, heritage brands may have more difficulty doing. This shakes up the entire system, something that Alexander Wang is known for, but also might give him an opportunity to get closer to his core consumer, something pivotal in the over-saturated, digital age. I wouldn’t put it past Alexander Wang to successfully break the status quo.
This collection was riddled with 90’s and Hip-Hop references and continued the ugly accessories trend that have been all too popular of late. Handkerchiefs, jerseys, and tracksuits mingled with leather pants and leather belts (a la Dior Cruise 2019 and McQueen every season since Sarah Burton took the helm). Deconstructed jerseys were reconstructed into tops and minidresses. Japanese High School uniforms were reworked into some after-school-cool. And how could you forget the belt skirt? Alexander didn’t.
The collection dripped street fashion in all the right ways, but it’s too early to tell if the trends are a bit too last season.
Honestly though, I’d be wearing my Wang 88 Jersey to the Annual Vogue Office Flag Football Game if I had the chance.
See my faves below.