Toile de jouy sans any further joy.

Let me start out by saying that toile de jouy is one of my favorite patterns in the entire world. Let me continue by saying that Maria Chiuri, CD at Dior since Raf Simons left for Calvin Klein, picked an amazing artist to do custom patterns for this collection. Splashed across jackets and skirts, this pattern looked amazing.

That’s about it for the highlights.

I have given Ms Chiuri the benefit of the doubt ever since she left Valentino for Dior. She did amazing things at the former and I was expecting greatness at the latter when the news dropped back in 2016.

She debuted at Dior with t-shirts. T-shirts at Dior. Merely reminiscing about that moment when those girls came out in t-shirts at a Dior show that was themed somewhere in the realm of the fencing sport still gives me chills – and not the good kind. An atrocity.

Fast-forward to this Resort collection where I’m still not entirely sure Ms Chiuri knows where she’s designing. Where Simons reworked the New Look for the modern woman, Chiuri has let the cornerstone of the Dior label, a silhouette that solidified Christian Dior’s legacy in fashion forever, fall by the wayside. A few jackets cinched at the waist here, a wide leather-belted dress there. Where is Dior? Where is the glamour?

Daywear: we pretty much have down, but evening looks like a disheveled mess. Harkening back to her roots at Valentino rather than the long history at Dior, Ms Chiuri continues to miss the mark. Dior’s untimely death left the brand largely underdeveloped, but Yves Saint-Laurent managed to bring the brand to new heights at the ripe age of 21. Not to say that Ms Chiuri has to follow exactly in her predecessor’s footsteps, but a little more than a nod to the past is, I think, more than appropriate in this situation. She has made is clear that her feminist stance is a benchmark of her work at Dior, this is something to be celebrated. But does this mean she must forsake the foundations that the label was built on?

Ms Chiuri obviously has vision, she has an eye for drawing inspiration and applying it to her own aesthetic, we saw that here in her Mexican and equestrian performance this Resort season, but she needs to reel it in. She can do great things with her immense talent.

But, perhaps I’m too hard on this Director. Perhaps her fresh look into Dior is exactly what the brand needs. But no, that can’t be.

How do you solve a problem like Maria?