Reach into Yves’ closet.
New York skylines, mentions of Yves Saint Laurent’s closet, and half-naked, glitter clad male models: the stuff of a young theatre nerd’s dream or Saint Laurent’s new line? The answer is - both.
This year’s menswear runway reflected the brand’s Spring 2018 show as if we were peering through the looking glass. While the women glided down the runway in front of the glittering Eiffel Tower, the men stomped in front of a more appropriate (and grungy) New York Skyline. The guests sat along one side of the catwalk under towering scaffolding and gazed upon Anthony Vaccarello’s latest iterations. The show ended with the models reentering the catwalk with glitter splashed on their faces and chest - a great disco moment.
The creative director has been with Saint Laurent for two years since Hedi Silmane’s short but core-shaking reign ended, but he seems to still be searching for a way to step outside of Hedi’s long shadow in the menswear department. Where he has succeeded in womenswear (largely continuing on Silmane’s nostalgic and simple designs) he has failed in menswear. The nature of menswear is, of course, more limited, but it presents an opportunity for Anthony to really step outside of the box. His inspiration for the collection came from the namesake, a great gesture lacking any follow through. Why pay homage with a boring show?
The collection lacked any real departure from what Silmane popularized during his time at the French label. With the exception of bootcut pants and more wild patterns, we are seeing more or less the same kind of Chelsea-boot-clad male models stomping the runway.
It may be time for Anthony to kiss his mother goodbye. Wait - wrong Anthony. It’s time for him to show his own aesthetic for menswear. Loving the showmanship, Anthony, not so much the clothes.
See my favorite (that jacket tho) below.